Sunday, June 3, 2012

Der Kunst (Art)

We had the day off for shabbat yesterday. Eddie and I spent the morning together, walking down Oranienbergerstr. in the other direction (not towards the happening street called Friedrichstr.) for a change. There are plenty of lovely shops - no chains that I could see - around Rosenthalerstr. I found an eco store - Der Grüne Erde (The Green Earth) - full of organic cotton and linen. I was in heaven. Alas, as I have restrictions on both spending and on weight, I had to restrain myself when confronted with their excellent sale. I bought two very lightweight and moderately priced items, and put back the towel. Maybe I will get one in the branch in Cologne next week.
I spent the afternoon alone, near the most repellent part of Berlin I have thus far encountered: Potsdamer Platz. It's like Piccadilly Circus without the flashing signs. Very wide spaces, tall buildings, crass ads here and there, and very, very noisy. (I was too rattled to take an illustrative photo.)
Luckily, the art museum cluster called Kulturforum sat a few (quieter) blocks away. For the modest sum of 8 euros, I was able to enjoy three museums - and could have added a fourth (musical instrument museum)! I visited the old masters (e.g., Lucas Cranach the elder) in the Gemäldergalerie first, then saw an exhibit at the Kumpfstichkabinett - prints and drawings - and finally I went a short way across the plaza to the Neue nationalgallerie, which is full of post-war art.
I liked many of the old masters - though I admit when you've seen one Italian Renaissance Madonna and Child, you've pretty well seen them all. (Raphael and Botticelli perhaps being notable exceptions). I had already seen the Piranesi prints - a series called "Imaginary Prisons" - and the Goya "Caprichos" (including the famous "the sleep of reason brings forth monsters"). I was very disappointed to find out that the study room was closed because it was Saturday! I will have to make time to return on a weekday. What other chance will I ever have to see a Durer etching close up?
Here's one bizarre Madonna and Child: note the unbabylike Jesus.... 
The modern art made me slightly ill. Some paintings done in 1947 and later looked like the work of asylum patients, no offence to them. The anger, terror, confusion, and despair of the war became translated into erratic brushstrokes and incoherent imagery, often in black or muddy colors. Very disturbing - but perhaps that was the real message: I cannot paint properly because I barely survived hell.
Today we will be out late - at the Berlin Philharmonic!! - and up early tomorrow, so may have to post later than usual.

2 comments:

  1. I actually have seen babies like this one! And I do like this painting...it's not as static as so many of that style. There's movement and a joy in it :)

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  2. Someone else remarked via e-mail that his own new grandson resembles this Jesus. I have to wonder if being recently birthed can make the eyes bulge....

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